A Day of Discovery . . .

 When you come here, you have to remember not to plan your days too completely so you leave room for discovery.  We were reminded again about how wonderful that can be when we launched off yesterday “to take a walk.”  For exercise.  We left the house around 9 am — thought we’d walk for about an hour, but didn’t get back until 4:30!  Nothing was planned, just an accidental adventure which we find happens all the time around here if we let it!  Come with us!  Enjoy some gloriosity to go with it!

Connecting all the towns in England are ancient public footpaths that go from village to village, crossing through fields of wildflowers, into woods, through gates, near lakes and rivers, over bridges, across farmland and cow pastures, even through neighborhoods.  That’s one of them, above . . . these are footpaths that people have used since the beginning of time (there have only been vehicles for the last hundred years; people have walked here, to trade, to travel, to farm, to visit, for many centuries). The paths are well-marked on any map (we got our map here at the bookstore) … you just follow the signs and see where they lead you.  Are you ready to go?  Within just a few blocks of our flat, we followed the path, through a kind of gate (called a stile), and ended up here . . .

Taking these walks is one of our very favorite things to do in England. The new little lambs are the best . . . at first, it made me a bit nervous walking this close to sheep (and especially when we got close to huge cows) — I’m not used to it!  But they just watch us with big eyes and seem to have no inclination to attack.  The lambs are so adorable!

Here’s a shaky video of the darling sheep!

I used Joe’s camera on this walk; I think his video settings are a bit different than mine, but I didn’t know it until just a few minutes ago!  It will give you an idea of the place, but I’ll have to use my own camera next time!

So up the hill we go . . . you can see, there are many places where there is no visible path to follow . . . of course, once all of us tramp through here together, they’ll probably be able to see the path from space!

And in other places, our way is very well marked . . .  so beautiful in this wood, with birds flying out of the trees, and little creeks all along the way . . .

The fields are gated like this with “stiles” so the animals can’t wander, but there are these wonderful little ladders so we can climb over them.  Plus, this way, no one can forget to close the gate!   We counted fifteen stiles on our way back home.   That yellow arrow is the marker for the path.  You wouldn’t want to miss one!

As we were going along, Joe read that there was a small cottage owned by the National Trust in the next town over; built in 1500, it was bought in 1899 by a famous stage actress of the Victorian era named Ellen Terry who lived there for almost thirty years.  The house was in Smallhythe, which was a village only three miles from Tenterden.  Even though we had no idea who Ellen Terry was, we thought, Hmmmm, National Trust … usually means Tea Room!  And bathroom!  I said, “The girlfriends will love it . . . let’s go there!”

We missed our yellow marker and got a little lost, but only once!  We are on the wrong side of the river from those cows!  But we’re OK, because  . . .

. . . we have the amazing pathfinder, Joe. If it was up to me, a search party would have had to be sent.  Hello big cows.

The girls were all comfortable…there are babies out there too, mostly napping and enjoying the spring sunshine.  (Watch where you walk through here girlfriends!)

Past this beautiful farmhouse with oast houses we go . . .

And over this narrow little bridge … some of the bridges had no sides, but most have a wooden or metal rail…some you have to climb over on both sides and some are half this width!  It occurs to us that we could bring a picnic out here!  Sit in the lovely fragrant grass and watch the lambs play!  Have a nap, read a book, listen to the birds.  Next time!  “Doing nothing” at its very best!  As the saying goes:  “A picnic is a state of mind and can be made anywhere!”

Oooo, up the path to civilization . . . a neighborhood . . . we’re almost there . . .

Just one more gate to go over . . . you can do it!

And then, just another block (watch out for the cars!); we’re heading for the house next door to the brick church you can see there on the left (is everyone still with us?  I thought I heard a splash back there!  I bet it was Deborah, going for a swim!  Pat, will you please go get her!?)

OH MY; dry off quick any swimmers, because we’re here!  This is the cottage called Smallhythe (pron. “Smallhigh-th”) Place!  Look at it!!!!  How wonderful!!!  Door is open; we get to go inside!

 This is the beautiful actress Ellen Terry — she was born in 1847.  One thing for sure, she knew how to wear a hat!  (This photo was in the bathroom near the tea room!)  But there was a lot more to her than just the obvious!

I don’t know where to start showing you the house, I took so many photos . . . so I’ll start with her bedroom, since it was my favorite.  Most of the original features of this 16th century Tudor house remain; nothing is perfect, except the inperfections; the floors are uneven, the walls and doors are crooked, and the fireplaces are like none I’ve ever seen.  Although she lived most of the time in London with all the luxurious amenities money could buy, Ellen Terry bought this cottage to be alone in the country with her children and grandchildren.  It had no running water and no electricity and she liked it and kept it that way; she prepared meals in an open fireplace and went to bed in this room with the wavy-glass window panes, by candlelight and moonlight.  The day she died, her daughter, Edy Craig, gave the cottage, and everything in it, to the National Trust.  (Edy had her own house, “The Priests House,” next door, attached to the church.)  This room looks almost exactly as it did then, in 1928, when Ellen died.  The tea table, set with china, is ready for her tea.

Her bedroom reflects very little of her theatre life; on the walls are pictures of her family and those she most loved, her mother and her children.

I had to show you this lovely embroidery on her bed!!

Her dressing table is still set up with her brushes; pots of flowering geraniums are arranged on the window sill above it.

The cottage is cozy and small and filled with charm, there are flowered cotton curtains at every window.  Some of Ellen Terry’s handmade stage costumes from her remarkable acting career are in one of the rooms; there’s a library full of old books, and creaky wooden floors; every corner is filled with her personal belongings and old photographs; there are drawings and things made by her children, gorgeous handmade jewelry, lovely dishes and linens.  You have a great feeling for who she was when you leave here.  You have to come back girlfriends, and do it again, slower, with your own camera this time!

This is one of the pretty fabrics used on the windows . . . sweet peas . . .

If you peek out the window, at the end of the hall, in the photo above, you get a glimpse of the garden!!!  We’ll go there too!  Can you believe that all this natural beauty and wonderful history is everywhere in this country?  It is!!!

This is Edy Craig’s (Ellen’s talented daughter) drawing of shoes; she did it as a sketch for theater costumes; she also designed some of her mother’s costumes.  Edy was also friends with Vita Sackville-West and the people at Charleston; it was a small world, and a close neighborhood; you would have to imagine that sooner or later everyone’s path was bound to cross!  So much history in this little cottage, such a lovely story, a whole interesting lifetime here, too much to tell in one little post!

“Sic transit gloria mundi.”  Translates . . . “Thus passes the glory of the world.”  Dame Ellen Terry lived to be 81 years old.  A yellow rose was named for her.

The roofline of the house alone could have a whole book written about it!  This is one of the very smallest and least famous houses belonging to the Trust, and still, too much to tell!

Behind the cottage is the Tea Room; through the door in the back, you can see Joe … he is wandering about on the other side of the thatched-roof barn (smells so good in there, like clean hay!).  Ellen’s daughter built the Barn Theatre back there, with the rows of red-painted wooden chairs, in honor of her mother.  Many famous British stage performers have traveled the 65 miles from London to appear in this tiny theatre over the years.  It’s still used; coming up soon is a performance of “The Importance of Being Earnest!”  It would be wonderful to join the small audience for a homemade play in a little neighborhood, in a tiny village in England!

Joe and I went for tea twice, both before and after we toured the garden; this was the second time, just before we left to walk home.  We soaked up the cool sun for an hour or so, Joe read maps; we drank everything that wasn’t nailed down; we ate delicious carrot cake, and I wrote down what I had seen, not to forget, for the diary I’m making of the trip.  The lilac came from the churchyard next door!  Every National Trust property has a proper tea room, most of them have tables both inside and in the garden.

And here we go, into Ellen’s garden! This is her rose garden, appropriately in bloom with mounds and mounds of tiny forget-me-nots; it’s still too early for many roses. . . Ellen designed the garden herself.  (P.S. The neighbors have cute houses too!)  You walk down the grass path here, and find lots of little flowers that barely show in this photo.  The path goes all they way around the walled garden.

Of course there are hedges, azaleas in bloom, small garden rooms, and a wild garden . . .

. . . where the apple trees are blooming, the air smells of the blossoms . . .

There are lots of lovely walks through the lilac bushes — and a Nuttery!  Yes, an orchard of only nut trees.  And look out there, at that opening . . . don’t you just want to follow that path to see where it goes?

Had to show you how it felt, with the breeze blowing through the wildflowers!

This painting is of Ellen and her family; that’s her on the right, her beloved daughter Edy in the blue scarf, and other family and friends, including Snuffles, the kitty.  This painting is said to very much depict the life Ellen Terry created at Smallhythe Place.

Very, very hard to leave this peaceful place, but look how much we learned!  What a wonderful discovery!  I wonder what we would have done today if we’d planned something!?  Could not have been one bit better than this!  And we still have our walk home to look forward to!

. . . and old friends to say goodbye to (at least until another day) . . .

Goodbye cow!

Goodbye darling little lambs with your happy wagging tails!

Goodbye gorgeous path through the countryside!  And a big THANK YOU, by the way, to the National Trust volunteers at the houses we see; these charming English people are full of interesting information that adds so much to each visit!  Hope you enjoyed our peaceful day girlfriends  . . . Bye for now!

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Sissinghurst!

 S I S S I N G H U R S T ♣ 

Last night, we ate delicious pub food at the George Inn in Cranbrook (we are addicted) and this is the music they played  . . . made me almost homesick!

This photo is my absolute favorite of all the photos we’ve taken so far!!!  Joe took it; isn’t that little doll the picture of joy?   She’s running between the hedges on the Long Walk at Sissinghurst Garden — it’s exactly how I feel every day; my feet didn’t touch down at Sissinghurst either!

Here is a photo I took from the top of the Sissinghurst Towers, so you can get a general idea of what the garden is like.  But don’t worry, we’ll climb down and get up close and personal with it and you’ll see that although some of the hedges look like they’re cut from florist oasis, they are real, soft bushes. The little holes on the top are where the birds go in and out to reach their nests; hedges are “bird motels.”  The long hedge you see on the left is part of what is called “The Long Walk;” a charming feature that occurs in many formal English gardens.

This is Sissinghurst Castle, with the towers peeking over the entrance way to the house . . . for the “aerial” photo; I was standing up there between the towers, under the flag, over the clock, where you can see that little person.

This is really the garden that planted the seed of England in my heart; all because of this book which I read when I was twenty-four.  Portrait of a Marriage was written by the son of Vita Sackville-West, and Harold Nicholson who were the owners of Sissinghurst; every other chapter is directly taken from Vita’s Diary, and her son Nigel wrote the chapters in between.  Besides the era, and my interest in those times, two things from this fascinating book resonated with me and opened doors in my mind.  The first thing was that, until then (and I really do hate to admit this but at least I figured it out before I was fifty!  The way I was going, it could really have taken that long), I believed that everyone pretty much lived exactly like we did at 6847 Claire Avenue, Reseda, California, USA.  I thought they believed the same things, did the same things, read the same things, they all sewed and embroidered, they all thought the same things were funny, they all loved to camp out and cook, they all loved to sing in the car.  You grew up, you got married, you had children, you lived happily ever after.  That’s just how I thought it was for not only me, but for everyone.  Any deviation would land you in the gutter, or prison or something.  But this book showed me that people lived and thought in very different ways, ways that I had never imagined, and that even though it might not be my way, it was a good way for them, as “normal” as me, and worked out just they way they wanted it to.   What a revelation!  No more judgy-wudgy.  Just like that.  And the other thing was this . . . these two people had a passion bigger than themselves that helped to keep them together and enthralled with their lives.  It was their garden.  And what they did with a bare plot of land, although it is in amazing England with the perfect soil and the rain to boot; what they left behind for the generations to come, is pure magic.  It was the first time I knew that there “were gardens in England.”  I dreamed of seeing Sissinghurst ever since I read this book, but first I had to move to Martha’s Vineyard, meet Joe, fall in love, develop the dream and the idea of making it come true, and when I finally got there, surrounded by all Harold’s and Vita’s creativity and dedication, tears leaked from my eyes, as I stood in the mown path of the wild garden meadow for the very first time, on a misty cool May day, smelling the flowers of the spring blooming apple trees.

Victoria Mary Sackville-West, Vita, was a prolific writer, a poet and journalist, born at another amazing house not very far away called Knole, which we are planning to visit soon (Oh yes, I will post pictures when we do!).  She would have inherited that amazing home, more of a castle, had she been born a boy.  But since she wasn’t, her father’s younger brother got the house and she just had to move away.  This would light my hair on fire for a lifetime, which I think it did hers,  but British aristocracy had some interesting laws in the old days, and luckily, in my family, that problem never came up! 🙂  Vita and Virginia Woolf were friends and lovers; which is the connection between Vita and the artists at Charleston.

Vita was one of the very first people to plant a garden in all one color; her White Garden is famous the world over.  Click there and prepare to be amazed and inspired!!

XOXOXOXOXOX

It’s May, that lusty month of may, all the world is coming awake, and here in England, the gardens have just begun to bloom.

This is the house that anyone can lease (through the National Trust) for a stay right here in the White Garden — but the trick is to definitely Book Ahead!  It was already booked up when we tried to get it.

The camomile bench smells even better than it looks!  I can only imagine what it looks like when the little daisy-like camomile flowers bloom!

Harold designed the structure of the garden; then built garden walls, planted hedges and pathways to make the  “rooms” that give the garden shape.

Every bend of a stone, brick, or dirt path brings surprises; an herb garden-room, long walks through pleached lime trees (that Harold planted in rows and made to grow together to become one!!!), a blue-painted door in an old wall; brick archways, garden statues, yew and boxwood bushes carved into shapes; wooden and stone benches for sitting and talking.  Or a happy running child running between the openings in the hedge!  You never know what you may see. 

I never knew there were so many colors of green until I came to England!

I fell in love with this pink clematis and now it grows over our picket fence garden on Martha’s Vineyard.  Maybe not as wild and fluffy as this one, but mine is a lot younger!  We still have some growing to do!

As you turn each corner, you make little screaming sounds inside, like when you find the moat (all good castles have moats!), with the reflections of the trees, the tiny, fragrant flowers of the blooming Hawthorn, the stone path to the boat house.  There are nine full-time gardeners here, a gift store and a tea room.

 Sissinghurst was a huge Elizabethan manor house at one time.  In the 1300’s, my blood relative (although we seem to have lost touch with the family 🙂 ), King Edward I, known affectionately as “The Hammer of the Scots,” spent the night here (Edward got around; in 1305 he paid a visit to Tenterden, the town we’re staying in now); and in 1573, Queen Elizabeth I spent three nights at Sissinghurst.  By 1800 most of the castle was in ruins; they demolished it, and carted it away, salvaging what they could for future building projects.  What we see here is all that is left, but these beautiful impressive ruins still show a bit of its former splendor.  Vita, deprived of her own home by archaic law and custom, bought the remains of a castle, and created her garden here.

What is this?  Does anyone know?  I looked for the little marker to tell me, but couldn’t find it.  Love it!  What a fresh and happy spring bloomer!

Here are a couple of other fresh and happy spring bloomers; that’s Rachel (who started out as my English Pen Pal in the early 1990’s and is now one of my dearest old friends) and Joe! 

XOXOXXOXOX

And as lovely as the squealing belted pigs, the wild garden, the Cow Parsley (Queen Anne’s Lace in our neck of the woods) and the moat are, all good things must come to an end.  And so this day did, but of course the ending is never sad as it always takes place in a lovely pub, in front of a delicious fire.  As the screen says whenever I turn the TV on around here:  Life’s Good.

Now would you like to take a little drive with us?  It’s so pretty — I could post every single time we drive anywhere, and you’d be amazed at how beautiful it is.  I’ll do more if you like, just let me know . . . But better fasten your seatbelt, and get steady, throw back some whisky (you aren’t driving!), as we are going out there on the wrong side of the road; I’m about to show you what a true adventure it is!  TGFJ.  Thank God For Joe and nerves of steel.

XOXOXOXOXOX

In that video we were on our way to Hever Castle, the childhood home of Anne Boleyn, which we saw yesterday!  More gloriosity (not a word, but obviously should be) to show you soon!  Happy Sunday girlfriends xoxo! I’ll leave you with what I see as the PERFECT magazine cover.  I have never before bought this magazine; I don’t even know what is in it, but how could I resist getting it????  Cutest little Corgi!  Everywhere we go we see England celebrating the Diamond Jubilee!  Every little town will have floats and parades in honor of the day!

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